free from the colter bay mega campground, we pedaled up and over the continental divide at towgatee pass and on an everlasting downhill, until it wasn’t. the pass rests at 9,658 feet. the air is thin and the view expansive.
the colter bay campground literally has hundreds of sites for all shapes and models of recreational camper. big-ass rv’s, group sites and of note, sites for humble hikers and bikepackers.
plenty of room for that ilk. keep us separated from the common people, the salt of the earth. after all, “those bikers wear the same clothing day after day and are very frightening, what with their helmets and chamois cream.”
kids scream and run around until their parents lay down the law, and then the parents gleefully break the 22:00 noise curfew, because they are adults.
the store and restaurant are busy as soon as they open and the national park service does well in marking up most items around 40%. i bought a can of spam (😔) in eureka a couple weeks ago and it cost $4.79. in the colter bay commissary today, the same can was $6.39 and i bought it because i seem to be suffering from nitrate, salt, and processed organ meat deficiencies.
spam, ramen, and lays barbecue chips in a titanium pot?
yes please!!!
the roads feeding the parks are crazy with traffic and noisy. most drivers respect fully loaded bikes, but there are always those who stray and cross that thin white line and venture onto the shoulder.
the roadside itself tells its tales with bits and pieces of broken automobiles and cooler lids and bottles and bags, both full and empty. highway riding is always an anxiety-fueled adventure and is not for the faint of heart.
i rode up the climb to towgatee pass on the divide trail. it was the longest climb of the trip at 13 miles, with an altitude gain of 2,200 feet.
when i left the campground, i was uncertain if i even wanted to pedal, i was tired and with little sleep (again), but 22-miles of tarmac took care of that…i moved quickly and once the road split, i was fully divide-engaged.
once i hit turpin meadows, the gravel took over and i started the climb. scott, meanwhile, rode highway 26 and avoided horse fly hell. alternate routes are always there for the taking and yet, scott and i have been mostly true to the dirt and gravel that marks our path to the south.
i should have never disparaged those flies because now, their serrated proboscides and highly effective anti-coagulants are streaking my legs with blood.
there seems to be some sort of fly hierarchy. i have noted they are able to stay in my orbit up to about 15 mph. then, they disappear. but, when one is swatted, a replacement is ever far away.
big and slow.
nasty bite.
we rode into lava mountain resort and had burgers and a gallon of ice water. we stayed in “grizzly 4”, a small cabin with 2 bunk beds and an empty gatorade bottle full of cigarette butts. such an easy housekeeping chore, but truly gross.
scott and i are both tired, and recognize the need for a day off of bikes and chunky gravel trails.
we will get that day off on tuesday, in pinedale, wy.