the llama ranch

we left big nelson quietly. the sun was up and then, covered by swirling, gray clouds. we hoped for a cooler day, and got it. there was a brief rain shower as we started up huckleberry pass, but the clouds remained and it was a comfortable climb of almost 2,000 feet.

after lunch in lincoln, we charged up stemple pass, which on paper, seemed a repeat of huckleberry pass…6.6-miles and 1,900 feet of up.

at first, we were pushed by strong, up-valley winds and it seemed like the jaunt would be swift. then, the route shifted and the manicured county road turned into geologic chunk. the grade turned from slightly non-horizontal to vertical. pedaling was compromised.

hike-a-bike.

i gave it my best shot, but the sections of 20% slope were too much and pushing my bike up the hill seemed a better option than gravity pulling me down.

the worst part was all of the hiking occurred in the sun and supplemental bikepacking issues arose: overheating, dehydration, exhaustion but, you push on. there is no other option.

i was able to pedal over the summit and paused at the top, able to award stemple pass with “worst bikepacking mountain pass” of the trip so far.

brutal.

fucking brutal

the descent was no holiday parade either. the loose rock, rutting and slope were treacherous; brake pads given their ultimate test.

but then, the road evened, my death grip on the brake levers eased and after one last wilderness turn, the biker’s silhouette on top of the barn appeared and you are at the llama ranch.

barb nye and her partner john, are the proprietors. their world is one of kindness and benevolence to cyclists. they take care of the strong, the hungry, the downtrodden and do so without an invoice.

when we arrived, we were given cold beverages and snacks. allen and susan, also southbound and who we met on the swan river death highway were here. roy is northbound on a solo. wade is southbound on a solo.

brethren.

scott and i were placed in a comfortable cabin, with beds and food. sleep came rapidly. before it did though, we talked about barb and john’s approach and how it can instruct even the most hardened individual about his or her humanity.

the llamas are gone, replaced by alpacas, which are a close relative and able to withstand weather extremes better than their cousins. there are horses and cows and the smells are rich and soothing.

all barb and john ask is that you share kindness with others once you leave and scott and i will do that.

onto helena.